The intense green colour of these fritters, originally Turkish, is paralleled by a wonderfully concentrated “green” flavour of chard and herbs. They are a truly marvellous way to start a meal. Spinach makes a good substitute for the chard: increase the quantity by 50 per cent and just wilt it in a pan instead of boiling it.

1. Bring a large pan of salted water to a boil, add the chard, and simmer for 5 minutes. Drain the leaves and squeeze them well until completely dry. Place in a food processor along with the herbs, nutmeg, sugar, flour, garlic, eggs, generous ¼ teaspoon salt, and some black pepper. Blitz until smooth and then fold the feta through the mix by hand.

2. Pour 1 tablespoon of the oil into a medium frying pan. Place over medium-high heat and spoon in a heaping tablespoon of mixture for each fritter. Press down gently to get a fritter 2¾ inches / 7 cm wide and ⅜ inch / 1 cm thick. You should be able to fit about 3 fritters at a time. 

3. Cook the fritters for 3 to 4 minutes in total, turning once, until they have taken on some colour. Transfer to paper towels, then keep each batch warm while you cook the remaining mixture, adding the remaining oil as needed. Serve at once with the lemon wedges.